Summary: a fit is not a shape — it is a set of pattern decisions with fabric and wash consequences. This guide walks the seven commercial fits and what each demands in cloth, stretch and laundry, so your range plan arrives at the factory already speaking pattern.
Slim straight
The commercial backbone: close through thigh, straight from knee. Wants 11–12.5 oz with 1–2% elastane for recovery; takes every wash gracefully. If a range has one men's fit, it is this one — our Midnight Standard block.
Relaxed straight
Ease through seat and thigh, honest straight leg. Works in rigid 100% cotton — the fit's roominess forgives zero stretch — which opens the door to beautiful raw and rinse programs.
High-rise tapered ("mom")
Sculpted waist, eased hip, taper to the ankle. The rise does the styling; the pattern earns its money at the waist-to-hip curve. Washed black and vintage blues are its natural casts — see the Noir Silhouette family in our archive.
Wide leg / column
Falls plumb from the hip in one line. Consumes noticeably more fabric (geometry is money) and demands drape: 9–11 oz, or softened heavier cloth. Hem width is the identity — specify it in centimetres, not adjectives.
Flare
Fitted to the knee, opening below. The knee-break point is everything: too high reads retro-costume, too low reads accidental. Approve this fit on a moving body, never a table.
Baggy
The decade's fit. Volume everywhere, waist held by geometry rather than stretch. Tint washes and dirty casts (our Drifter family) live here; light rigid fabrics keep the volume architectural instead of heavy.
Skinny / second-skin
Still a stable seller in several EU markets. Demands premium bi-stretch (2–3% elastane) and disciplined wash handling to protect recovery. Cheap stretch is most visible in this fit — a month of wear tells the truth.
Building a range that cuts efficiently
- Anchor: one slim-straight or straight (volume seller)
- Fashion: one wide/baggy statement (content and press)
- Sculpt: one high-rise women's fit (repeat-purchase engine)
- Share fabrics across all three — minimums met once, shelf still diverse
Every fit above exists as a proven block in our pattern room — rebuilt to your measurements on request via the Order Atelier.